The celebrated Routeburn Track was our final Great Walk in New Zealand.
The Routeburn spans two national parks: from Mount Aspiring in the northeast to Fiordland in the southwest. We combined it with the Caples Track to form a loop, using Kinloch Lodge as a midpoint. The lodge helpfully runs a shuttle from the end of the Caples track to the start of the Routeburn, both near the head of lake Wakatipu.
We started the Caples track at Howden Hut, where we’d arrived after our day kayaking Milford Sound. We climbed to McKellar Saddle, where we were treated to unexpected views through the clouds.
McKellar Saddle on the Caples Track.
From there, we descended into the broad, grassy Caples valley, a striking change in scenery from the rainforests of the Milford Track.
Grassy Caples Valley.
After a night at the lovely Mid-Caples Hut, we met our pickup from Kinloch in time to make it back to the lodge for lunch: burgers, beer, and a giant piece of carrot cake. The afternoon slipped by as we gazed at the mountain-laced Lake Wakatipu from a secluded hot tub. The evening ended with a local pinot noir, smoked Manuka honey butter, and berries drizzled over a “Pavlova” – a traditional New Zealand dessert. The owners of the Kinloch Lodge – Toni and John – were amazing hosts and on the verge of an incredible nine-week trip through Southeast Asia with their three young boys.
Sunrise at Kinloch Lodge.
The next morning, we savored lattes as John shuttled us to the start of the Routeburn. High on our first caffeine in two weeks, we set off under blue skies at a sprint.
Our lunch stop on the Routeburn was the Routeburn Falls Hut. We’ve already sung the praises of the New Zealand huts in a previous post, but this one was straight out of a fairytale. Like a treehouse, it stood on stilts for magnificent views over the treetops and down the valley.
From the Falls Hut, the Routeburn Track climbs to Harris Saddle, with on optional side hike from there up Conical Hill. Conical Hill offers 360-degree views back down the Routeburn Valley, across to the Darran Mountains, and down the Hollyford Valley all the way to the Tasman Sea.
Top of Conical Hill.
After descending from Conical Hill back the Saddle, we continued along the Routeburn’s famous long ridge walk. A draping of afternoon clouds lent a mysterious air to the Darran Mountains. Finally, as the sun set, we descended dramatically to Lake Mackenzie.
Shafts of sunlight pierce the clouds over the Darran Mountains.
We hiked this longish stretch in a single day to make the most of the last glorious weather before some serious snows set in. As night fell, our headlamps lit our last steps into Mackenzie Hut.
Our heavenly four days on the Routeburne and Caples tracks, along with our afternoon at Kinloch, threaten to spoil us for less luxurious backcountry routes. We’re now convinced that all hikes should have a B&B at the midway point.