Yangshuo is not only a superb cycling spot, it’s also the rock climbing capital of China. There are hundreds of bolted routes on nearby karsts. Hotels have names like “Climbers Inn” and “Monkey Jane’s”. Top notch climbers from around the world come to do routes like this one:
Not us. (Photo borrowed from Tom Skelhon)
We’re far from expert rock climbers. We’ve gone a dozen times or so in the States, but aren’t yet skilled enough to lead a climb or set up a top-rope. So we were pretty thrilled to squeeze a handful of climbs into our time in Yangshuo. All the climbs were great, but the tallest routes were the best – as you emerge above the bamboo tree tops, the surrounding karsts rise into view.
Our first time out, we went with a local company to a site called Swiss Cheese. Mercifully, our guide spoke a bit of English. In Mandarin, the words for “right,” “left,” “hand,” and “foot” sound a lot alike – even when you’re not clinging to a rock 30 feet up. We were joined by a young Chinese guy who was rock climbing for his first time. Our exchange was in a mixture of bad English (his) and even worse Chinese (ours), so we could be completely wrong – but it seemed he was traveling alone through China for four months. If so, this is a rare phenomenon. The Chinese are beginning to travel – in droves. We saw many many Chinese tourists in New Zealand, Hong Kong, and all over Yangshuo. But it seems they usually travel in big families or even bigger tour groups. With his long hair, ripped jeans, and stylish yellow socks (notably worn even under his climbing shoes), Daun was going solo.
On that first outing, we also met Chen Lu – an inspiring French woman in her 20s also studying Chinese in Yangshuo. Chen Lu is a cancer survivor who’s list of life goals – before she was diagnosed – included learning Mandarin someday. After her diagnosis and remission, “someday” became “now.” So she moved to China, adopted a Chinese name that the locals can pronounce, and - after just four months - is well on her way to fluency and building a new life in China, taking advantage of this rapidly changing country’s bountiful opportunities.
While studying in Yangshuo, Chen Lu rock climbs two to three times a week. She welcomed us to join her for future climbs – which of course we accepted. So for our next outing we biked out to “Wine Bottle” and down a short dirt path through the bamboo stands. We had the site all to ourselves on a wonderfully cool, overcast morning.
We’d hoped to do even more climbing while in Yangshuo, but the weather did not cooperate. A small disappointment in an otherwise wonderful three weeks.
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